“Cara, do they have cows in the streets like I have seen in
the movies?”
“Not where I was in Delhi, but here in Jaipur where I am
today, they are all over the place!”
My mom let out a sigh, I know she was wishing she could be
with me, just to see some of the sights for herself. “But I’ll find out why mom,
it’s really something to see!” The phone fizzled and the connection went dead
as it so often does…one of the many prices of living overseas and calling home.
The following blog is about my experience in India…from the
truly sweet to the extreme repugnant. I thought I did just about the craziest
thing last year by moving half way across the world to Abu Dhabi, to where I
knew no one, and although using my 8 years of professional teaching experience,
I would feel like I was starting over. Travelling alone, in a country like
India, is a completely different risk in itself.
Each section starts off with a quote from my itinerary from
the ITL travel agency located in Abu Dhabi. As days went on before I took off, I would often read the itinerary and get real excited for this experience that was to come. After the daily description from the itinerary, I’ll try and
give you the play-by-play and see if it matches up to what was expected. Thank
you for your time to read!
“Arrive in Delhi, you will be met and assisted by a Tamarind
representative and will be transferred to your hotel. India’s capital and major
gateway to the country, Delhi is contemporary and a bustling metropolis which
successfully combines in its fold of the ancient and the modern. Its strategic
location was one of the prime reasons why successive dynasties chose it as
their seat of power. New Delhi also reflects the legacy the British left
behind. Overnight in Delhi.”
I felt terrible for the representative that I had met in
India. I was told in Abu Dhabi that should anything happen to the flight with
respect to delays, that the Tamarind company would be informed. The plane
waited in Abu Dhabi an extra hour due to baggage delays and late passengers. I am
sure that if I were that late, the plane would take off without me. We
have learned here that not all passports are created equal. So…I knew that I
was going to be late from the start. Landing in India things seemed fine until
I was at passport control. Like the UAE, this country seems to be full of
meaningless lineups with no one waiting their turn and every piece of paper is
ruled by the ‘rubber stamp’. There was another hour wasted. When I met the
representative, I was all smiles to see my name in black in white in the sign
that he was holding. Not that it was any of my fault, but I apologized for the
delay (he wasn’t informed of any of the delays)…he was more than understanding.
I was looking forward to getting in the car. Going outside, the heat hit me. It
was almost as hot as Abu Dhabi, but with a very sticky humidity. The driver
found us shortly and we were off.
I was taken aback by the driving on the other side of the
road. I also noticed that on the large city roads on which we were driving on
that there were usually 4 lanes paved. Nothing strange until you grasp that
there were 6-7 lanes of active traffic! I knew better than to panic. My driver
knew the roads…and he maneuvered with the best of them. I had never seen even
so much as a fender bender while I was in the country, I was very surprised!
Some wore helmets on their motorcycles while others didn’t. I perhaps didn’t
realize that I was really out of my familiar territory until I saw a Sikh
gentleman riding his motorcycle with a bandit-like bandanna wrapped around his
nose and mouth, while being neatly tucked into his turban.
Around the city streets, you would see the odd cow in the
road, apartment dwellings, areas of extreme riches, and areas of extreme
poverty. I have been in impoverished countries before, but not quite like this.
Even in the city core of Puerto Plata or Santo Domingo, you might seem groups
of homeless individuals in varying states of health and clothes on their back.
Here, there seemed to be communities of homelessness wherever there was space
to be had: out in the open, under bridges, along the river shorelines. If the
children had clothes on their backs, they seemed to be lucky compared to
others.
I was comfortable…that was until we stopped for a red light.
Two women of extreme poverty knocked on my window at different times…they were
able to see that 2 Indian men were escorting a white tourist. Not knowing the
area…and I wasn’t getting any advice from them…I had to keep the window up. I
felt terrible turning them away, but I just froze. I once thought that I came
from humble beginnings, now I know that I was born into privilege.
Even though the flight was only three and a half hours (not
including the delays), I was exhausted and was thrilled to see that my hotel
room was similar to the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr (Abu Dhabi) when it came to the
style and quality of the bed. Alone in the room, the implications of travelling
alone had begun to sink in. I was still high on adrenaline of the venture, but
second guessing my choice of destination based on my car ride from the airport.
Feeling the need for familiar food, I went down to the coffee shop to order a
small dinner. I was thrilled to see that they had all-day breakfast on the
menu. To those of you who know me well, this was big. When finished, I was
asked if I would like anything else. I asked, “do you have tea available?” “Tea
madame? Yes of course I have tea!” Cara, you are in India. It was a bit of a "face-palm" moment. Tomorrow we would be driving to Jaipur. I was happy to be
leaving Delhi.
“Today morning drive to Jaipur (252 kms/5.5 hours) check into
your hotel. Jaipur is the gateway to the magnificent and vibrant state of
Rajasthan. Evening take a stroll in the markets of Jaipur for the traditional
dresses and shoes, curio shops, blue pottery, etc. Overnight in Jaipur.”
At exactly 8:30am as planned, my driver was there in front
of the hotel lobby to pick me up to travel to Jaipur for the next few days. I
was thrilled to have the same driver throughout my whole experience. We were
able to build up a rapport, and I knew I
was safe with him. I learned that he had a daughter and a son, as well as “one
expensive wife” as he put it. His children were in their teens, and his wife
worked in the home. They lived in the countryside. He has an apartment in Delhi
so that he can work in the city. His wife has no education or job. Things are
very simple still in the countryside.
As we drove on, it was very clear that each area and region
of the country can differ greatly from one end to the next. Although being from
the simple countryside, my driver, Mr. Palakdhari, knew every inch of his
route. If the land was changing in value he would let me know. At the site of
industry, it would mean that rent has just risen for the residents. Before long
we were in between major cities and in the long path of rural India. Cows of
course, are a holy site. I asked about the farmers. Unfortunately, their lives
are like farmers elsewhere. They cultivate the land, take care of the
livestock, and feed the country. The fruits of their labours are
exploited at the market place by clever businessmen and they are left to make
ends meet…maybe. This has gone on, and will continue for generations.
We came upon one town that had a monorail system above us as
we drove under its bridge. It was as if the area tried to modernize itself, but
it left the people behind. Also on our route I discovered the first of many
toll booths that we would have to pass. I asked if the tolls collected from
passengers were used in any way to help the citizens. Although Mr. Palakdhari
had limited English skills, his laughing response told me the answer. I asked
the same question later on with one of the tour guides. His answer was more
positive, but it felt scripted.
Other than the main roads, there really is nothing around in
the country areas. That means that if traffic stops, you are stopped
indefinitely. Drivers were stopped within their lanes and in between them.
Now…all of these people had to somehow turn around in this mess. It was like
watching clever tetris pieces; somehow the drivers were careful around each other
and we were able to turn and go back (yes, driving in the opposite direction we
should have been driving). On-coming traffic slowed and turned with the rest of
us. Off to our right, we noticed a car stuck on a shallow median. The car was
trying to cross over onto a slip road to try and get around the traffic. My
driver got out and guided the others. Their small sedan was just too small to
take it. Sizing up the SUV we were in, my driver got back in his seat and took
on the median himself. Slowly and carefully we made it onto the slip road and
we were again on our way.
“Look madame, see that milk truck? It says ‘milk not for
sale’.”
“Why would there be a milk truck with milk that isn’t for
sale?”
“I don’t know madame, it makes no sense to me at all! It’s
very strange!”
Looking back, I don’t know why this was so funny to me at
the time. Perhaps you had to be there. It was as if Mr. Palakdhari, a lifetime
citizen of the country had no idea of some of the logic in his own country. For
those of you with me in the UAE, I’m sure you can relate to a number of similar
examples here. I just had to share this part.
I was looking forward to this walking of the nearby markets
in Jaipur as the itinerary suggested. I was met at the hotel with one of the
travel agent’s representatives to make sure that my check-in went okay. I was
told that I probably had another hour or so of proper daylight to be out of the
gates of the hotel area. After that, I was told to be sure that I was in the
hotel. After the long drive and traffic from Delhi, I was happy to stay in the
hotel, get on wifi, and call home.
“Today, enjoy a full-day sightseeing trip of Jaipur, also known
as the “Pink City”. The city of Jaipur is the capital of the state of
Rajasthan, famous for its colourful culture, forts, palaces, and lakes. Jaipur
owes its name to the founder of the city, warrior king Sawai Jai Singh II.
Visit the Amber Fort. The best way to explore the fort is to ride up to in on
elephant back. Prominent structures inside the fort are Diwan-i-Aam, adorned
with latticed galleries, the Ganesh Pol, with a beautiful printed image of Lord
Ganesh, and the stunning Sheesh Mahal, a hall decorated with thousands of tiny
mirrors. Later, stop to photograph the beautiful Hawa Mahal, also known as the
“Palace of the Winds.” This beautiful façade with its ornately carved
latticework was designed so the ladies of the palace could look out onto the
streets unobserved. Later you will visit the City Palace…again, a synthesis of
Rajasthani and Mughal styles. The museums here showcase rare and ancient
manuscripts, arms dating back to the 15th century, and costumes of
erstwhile royalty. Later, visit the Jantar Mantar Observatory, comprising of
geometric devices for measuring time, and tracking stars in their orbits. Evening
at leisure. Overnight in Jaipur.”
Elephant ride? Yes please! The driver picked me up at
exactly the time he said he would with my tour guide, Smer. The Amber Fort was a
truly magnificent sight to see. I was equally impressed with the knowledge of
my tour guide, and the way he would make sure he was close enough but without
making me feel uncomfortable, in order to show that I was his client, a signal
that kept most of the locals selling souvenirs from hassling me. I appreciated
it! The queue was long, but soon I was on the back of the elephant that would
take me up to the entrance of the fort. I had never heard of the Amber Fort, and
I think it’s one of the most underrated sites to see in Northern India. The
fort contains numerous examples of Hindu, Islamic, and Turkish architectural
styles. The purpose of this was to keep everyone at the time of its construction happy. If
something was constructed in only Hindu architecture, it ran the risk of being
destroyed by those of opposing faiths, particularly the Moghuls who were Muslim.
My favourite parts of the Amber Fort were the animals embedded in the hand
carved architecture, and the palace of the mirrors…thousands of tiny mirrors
displaced in splendour. Coming out of the fort, things got very crowded. I
asked the tour guide to slow down. He was a quick and tiny person! He reminded me
that I was his responsibility and that he wouldn’t lose me. I told him he had
an easy job as I’m the one who sticks out, and I lose him quickly!
Getting back into the car, we quickly realized we were going nowhere fast. I had come to India during their holidays, so people from all over were coming to see their nation’s beloved wonders. You had the same traffic with the cars as before, but now you have elephants from the tour, cows, dogs, and goats walking among the traffic. They didn’t seem to mind being in between the cars and among the people, and the humans were being just as patient!
If travelling in India (or I assume in many other parts of
the world), your tour guide is going to try hard to take interest and get to
know you. Just be cautious. A few
moments after I was asked if I liked to read, I found myself within a
bookstore. I said I liked the semiprecious stones of the area, I found myself
in front of a jeweler. Don’t be afraid to say no. I was happy, however, to find
out in the book I purchased just why in the world the cows insist on remaining among traffic! (1.
The cow is a sacred animal, the people of India are not allowed to tie them up;
should they do so, they have to repent at all temples throughout the country! 2.
The exhaust fumes from the traffic act like a bug repellent 3. The exhaust
fumes cause them to get high!!!!) I couldn't wait to give my mother these answers on the next phone call.
That day we saw a few other sites including the “Palace of
the Winds” and the Observatory. It was incredible to see their instruments from
hundreds of years ago being accurate on the time and position of the planets
and their orbits. Afterward, we were to see another palace, however, I was
beat. My tourguide seemed to have taken a little offense but I was exhausted
from the walking and the heat. I thought it must have been close to 4pm..the
day felt long and I was getting hungry. When we got back to the car and I saw
it was only 12:30pm! It was time to rest in for the day.
“Today, drive to Agra enroute visit Fatehpur Sikri, which was
build by Emperor Akbar and is home to many historical buildings. Akar wanted to
make Fatehpur Sikri his headquarters; however, he had to abandon it due to
shortage of water. The Tomb of Sheik Salim Chisht 1 enshrines the burial place
of the Sufi saint who lived a religious life there. Today, Fatehpur Sikri is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. After your sightseeing, proceed to Agra (235 kms/5
hours). On arrival in Agra, check in to your hotel. Later visit the Taj Mahal…a
mausoleum built as a symbol of Emperor Shah Jehan’s devotion to his beloved
queen Mumtaz Mahal. Considered an architectural marvel, its construction took
thousands of workers over 21 years to complete. Return to hotel. Overnight in
Agra.”
Once again, my driver was right on time. He would take me
from Jaipur to Agra, picking up the next tour guide at Fatephur Sikri. On the
way, he asked me if I would like to see how they make carpets in the
countryside. I was intrigued, of course! The gentleman in the humble building
draped with linens to keep the sun’s strong rays out was on his knees on top of
a loom, almost unaware of our presence. He was kind, allowed me to take some
pictures and showed me his work. I got to feel the material and ask him
questions. Although happy to have been there, I realized I was just taken for a
shopping trip. I told the driver that I was sorry, but I wasn’t about to
purchase a carpet! Neither man was pushy and I thanked them for their time…I
was happy to be on the road again.
We pulled over to the side, and before I knew it, my hand
was being shaken by the next tour guide from his seat in the front with the
driver. We were very close to the gates of Fatephur Sikri. I was about to
discover another wonder of this country. The driver let us off at the main
area, and then we had to actually take a shuttle into the inner gates as it was
restricted to automobiles. We waited in the heat for a little while before the
bus had come. The passengers were numerous coming off. I had some space for
about a minute after I got on. All spaces were full, people were standing all
along the aisle, and a few were hanging from the door rails. Not uncommon.
My tourguide and I made our way into the gates, and he gave
me time on my own to wander about. As I began to step away from him, we were
approached by a young gentleman with a camera. He had said that his friends had
a wager, that he should try to get his picture taken with me. I was flattered
and then found it completely humorous when my tour guide had told me that in
the Indian culture, they enjoyed having their picture taken with people of
different colours. Whether or not that is true, or he just said that to make me
feel better, I wasn’t sure. It was going to happen a few more times along the
way. I never minded. All my life these people were exotic to me, and now the tables have turned!
After this tour, we were on our way to the main part of Agra
so that I could check into my hotel. It was 4:30pm, and they were going to pick me
up an hour later. In the meantime, I needed to check in, charge my phone and
camera battery, inquire about the wifi, and manage to eat something. Unlike the
other hotels, this one didn’t have a ‘coffee shop’. I needed something fast. I
asked the representative and she explained that a Costa coffee shop was near
the hotel… “just outside the gate, go straight and go left”. As soon as I
passed the guard, four rickshaws, some motarized and some not, stopped to ask
me where I was going. I suddenly felt very claustrophobic! I changed my mind as
I couldn’t think how I was going to cross a road! I quickly ran back to my room
and ordered a small pizza from room service. With 2 minutes to spare, I gobbled
down what I could, and met the tour guide and driver for the very anticipated
Taj Majhal.
From the gold and semi-precious stones to the finely
in-scripted Quar’an verses shining in glory, the Taj Mahal
mesmerized myself and thousands of other tourists within moments. I was quiet
for most of this tour, taking it in. My tour guide thought there may have been
something wrong, lol, but I assured him I was just appreciating the moments.
Before we left, I was in a few more photos for other tourists. I have to wonder
in all of the social media and networking, if I’ll ever see those pictures!
“This morning after breakfast explore the city of Agra. Visit
the Red Fort, which was commissioned in 1565 by Akbar. The beautiful yet
forbidding structure is a handsome example of Mughal architecture. You will
then visit Sikandra, which is also a mausoleum of the great Emperor Akbar.
Akbar designed his own mausoleum as a perfect blend of Hindu, Christian,
Islamic, Buddist and Jain designs and motifs, in keeping with his religious
tolerance and secular views. Later drive to Delhi (203 kms/5 hours) and check
in to your hotel. Overnight in Delhi.”
Now, I wouldn’t want to sound bored at this point…but
another fort and another mausoleum. Both in the form of palaces like the rest.
A few pieces really came together during these tours. From the Red Fort, you
can see the majestic Taj. This fort was of particular interest when it came to
its protection from enemies. As we walked across the drawbridge, it was
explained that down below in the wet mote, there used to be alligators to warn
off enemies…that is, if the lions, tigers and bears from the dry mote didn’t
get them first. The Wizard of Oz moment made me giggle, but the tourguide didn’t
understand the reference. We continued through the gates after the drawbridge
(sorry, no portcullis!). I wish that I could have all of my students I’ve ever
had through our medieval times unit come through with me. Once inside, we were
on quite the grooved incline. I learned the grooves were there for the horses,
or else they would slide (something Tara and I learned the hard way in our tour
of Petra, Jordan). The steeper slope along the way was again to ward of
enemies. Had they gotten through the lions, tigers, bears, and alligators, the
guards would be able to see them from the top and roll large stones down on
them, Indiana Jones style!
Almost as intriguing as the Taj, the next mausoleum,
Sikandra stood in grandeur of it’s unique blend of the marble and sandstone.
Designed by himself, Emperor Akbar, a true example of tolerance with all
religions, lays peacefully.
Our last stop was an embroidery museum. I was to be shown
masterpieces by a man named Shams (Arabic for sun). He was a master of
embroidery, that is for certain. The following link is to my favourite piece.
It was said that he had a dream of Jesus as a shepherd with a number of sheep
around him. Although he was Muslim, his vision was surely that of Christ. The
work took about 9 years to complete, and after doing so, he went blind. No
patterns, no instructions. Pure work that was only complete when he was
satisfied:
We said goodbye to our tour guide. It turned out that he was
originally from Jaipur, so we were able to converse about some of the sights
that I had seen. He had moved to Agra 5 years prior and loves it so much more as
there are more tourists for his business. Soon, Mr. Palakdhari and I were on
our way back to Delhi. Considering my first night in Delhi, I was a little
nervous to be spending a full day outside with a tour guide.
“This morning after breakfast, proceed for a full day combined
city tour of the Old and New Delhi, the modern capital of India. This
fascinating city has been in existence since the 6th century BC. Visit
Jama Masjid, which is the largest mosque in India, commissioned by Emperor Shah
Jahan. The courtyard of the mosque can hold about 25,000 worshippers. Enjoy a
rickshaw ride in Chandni Chowk, the busiest market in Old Delhi…noisy, chaotic
and uniquely Indian. Drive past Red Fort, President House, India Gate and
several other government buildings in Edwin Lutyen’s modern Delhi before you
head to Rajghat, the memorial to Mahatma Ghandi that marks the spot where he
was cremated in 1948. Later visit Humayun’s Tomb, commissioned by Humayun’s
wife Hamida Banu Begum in 1562. It was the first garden tomb built in the
Indian sub-continent where the Persian architect used red sandstone on a large
scale. Evening at leisure, overnight in Delhi.”
OK, I was surprised. This day was my favourite! I was called
over the phone by my guide. It was striking to hear a woman’s voice on the
line. Today was going to be much different than I had thought. She spoke to me
in such a way that she wanted for me to not only know about her city, but to know her city as a woman. She was dressed in Indian cultural wear, but without a bindi. She
explained her family circumstance, and unfortunately, although only 25, she was
a widow. Widows were forbidden to wear their bindi. Despite her circumstances,
she was cheerful and happy to be working with tourists. We did everything on
the itinerary and then some.
First, we visited the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in
India. I shuttered as I walked up to the set of stairs leading into the place.
Although intrigued by the mosque as all the other monuments, I was getting
tired of the monuments. I was looking forward to getting into the markets with
the tour guide. The rickshaw ride was noisy, unbalanced, nerve wracking in
traffic…but I loved it just the same. We went through the old market place
where you could find just about everything on wholesale. Indians and expats
alike were walking the streets and going about their business. There were those
who were juicing fresh fruit to customers, while others were strapping new HP
printers onto the back of a mo-ped. Some businesses had glorious fabrics for sarees, jewelry glistened in the windows of others.
We drove back into New Delhi. If New Delhi was chaotic, Old
Delhi was chaotic with no rules or regulations, and no laws enforced! New Dehli
suddenly seemed calm. We drove past numerous government buildings, all under
tight security as terrorism is a national threat. Down the main road was the
India Gate. The driver offered for me to get out and take a proper picture, but
when it is very busy, I’m not one to feel comfortable to get out of the car, so
I apologize for many of the in-car pictures. I’m not sure why, but I was
surprised for a moment when my tourguide told me that the India Gate was
actually a WWI memorial with 85,000 names of Indian men inscribed reflecting
their service and sacrifice in the Great War. You don’t read about the Indian
contribution from our Canadian textbooks. Of course, I quickly realized; as
India was a colony of Britain, the country was very active in making their
contributions.
The next site had my driver and tour guide shocked and
disappointed for it was closed. Neither of them had seen it like this and there
didn’t appear to be a reason why. It wasn’t busy so we were able to walk along
the gateway and took pictures from outside the property. This was the site of
where Mahatma Ghandi was cremated. She had asked if I had heard about him. I
may not have heard of the Indian contribution in the Great War, I said. But
yes, Ghandi I’ve heard of.
Next we were off to lunch. I had asked her to take me to
whichever she recommended. There were the odd American restaurants, but nothing
like the UAE. I had requested to eat something local as long as she promised to
keep it mildly spicy. She had promised that she would protect me from “Delhi
Belly”. The butter naan bread and lentils were still spicy to my taste buds but
were delicious just the same. I had a mango lassi drink to help put out the
flames (it had the consistency of a smoothie). The restaurant was very modern,
very air conditioned, and the staff was very pleasant. I had the leftovers
wrapped up. There was another monument to see, but she had an alternative for
me. She knew my trip was full of monuments and that I was ready to see
something a little bit different. Something that I wanted to become more
involved in, rather than be an observer.
She had taken me to the 2 most beautiful places of worship
that I had ever seen. If you can imagine what it might be like inside Aladdin’s
lamp, you could be close to what it was like to be in the Sikh temple of Delhi.
Plush carpet welcomed our washed feet, and our eyes were dazzled by the gold
plated walls and the luxurious tapestries along the other walls. A service had
just ended, and we were welcomed to sit with the other worshipers as the book
of the Gurus was still being read aloud. I was stunned. She took me all around.
I knew I stuck out even more than before, but it didn't bother me much. Not
only being whiter than anyone there, I was also required to wear a bright
orange bandanna. We came around to the outside where water was poured into my
hands and we were to drink. The Sikh temple and its congregation not only
welcomed me, but also my tour guide. She was also a tourist in their temple as
she was Hindu. I quickly took a few pictures of the outside (photography was
prohibited on the inside) and we were off to our next stop.
Bright, beautiful, and full of life were the idols and
worshipers inside the Hindu Temple. Photography of the idols were forbidden.
My camera and phone had to be locked up before entering. They were stunning.
Each idol’s significance was explained. I was even welcomed to be adorned with
a bindi by a kind man in the middle of the temple.
In one day…I was in a mosque, a Sikh temple, and a Hindu
temple. The religious historian in me was very happy. Full from lunch and
exhausted from walking, we got back in the car and headed toward the hotel. My
driver would then pick me up at 1am late into the night. I had a chance to
pack, sleep, and shower before taking off again for Abu Dhabi.
“Today you will be met and assisted by our representative to the
International airport to board the flight for your onward destination.”
Another representative met me in
the hotel in the early morning after check out and we left for the airport. He
was able to stay with me until just before check-in. The airport in Delhi is
very large and modern. I was thrilled to find out that the kind lady behind the
desk upgraded me to business class but loathed the fact that I was stuck in
security for an extra 40 minutes waiting for a baggage tag for my purse (NO
other airport has EVER requested a baggage tag for my purse). I was thrilled to
find a Starbucks but then 3 people took advantage and cut their way in front of
me. I didn’t have the strength to mention anything. Business class made up for
it. Although the flight was short, I basked in the glory of being able to
recline my seat completely into a bed with a nice comforter and supportive
pillows. Breakfast was made fresh and a la carte.
Now back in Abu Dhabi and into the routine of school with my
colleagues (students start next week), I am able to enjoy my trip to India in
photos and in telling stories more than I was while there. I am no longer
worried about being on time for the driver or getting lost in the streets on my
own. I can tell people how amazing the sites and sounds were, and how
invigorating it was to travel as usual. Especially here in the UAE, where many
colleagues are not able to travel on their own…anywhere, I am blessed to be
able to continue to enjoy the world. Who might join me next?